Rio’s cathedral near Lapa

I had a friend of a friend in Copacabana, so I could check that it is no more dangerous after dawn. She took me to the Sugar Loaf, which has amazing views of the city. It may be expensive (R$52), but it’s definitely worst it if the sky is clear.

View of Rio from Sugar Leaf

If you want to spare money, do it on the Christ, as you can walk up leaving from a Park near the botanical garden. My problem was to find someone to go with me as I heard that people got assaulted. As the girls I motivated only had flip flops I had no choice but to walk by myself. If you do so, do it on the morning as the track is between trees and can get dark early. I was not proud of myself as I heard animals and thought they were humans ready to jump on me! But I was so happy when I arrived there and saw some tourists.

View of Rio from the Christ

Unfortunately just the moment I arrived there started an impressive thunderstorm above our heads. I ran into a van who didn’t charge me to drive me down. The only clear day I had, I went to the hospital for an infection I had on the foot, due to a sand insect from Northern Brazil, so there was no possibility for me to enjoy the best view of the city. Try to make sure you go on a clear day if you can!

On Sundays you must eat the typical feijoada (something else that I missed in Rio!). Then you can burn the calories in Ipanema. On Sundays, the street bordering Ipanema beach is closed for cars, so it’s full of longboarders and bikers. Enjoy it to rent a city bike for R$5 a day only by phone. Ask some Brazilian to make the call for you as it’s quite complicated.

At night go to Lapa but don’t leave anything in your pockets. If you guys see a beautiful lady with tiny skirt dance against you, don’t think you’re irresistible! She is more interested in what’s inside your pockets than inside your trousers!

I unfortunately missed Santa Teresa and I regret it, as I heard it was lovely to walk in the streets but I had only time at night and was afraid to walk up alone from Lapa as the streets were dark and empty. I also heard that you can get lost easily so it’s better to get a bus to drive up to the more touristic part.

The best view of Rio is from Niteroi. You only need to pay R$4 for the ferry boat leaving from XV square and you’ll enjoy a complete view of Rio including the Christ and Sugar Loaf. You can also visit the modern art museum before leaving the island.

Rio from Niteroi

From November you can assist to some repetition in one of the many samba schools of the city. Then I don’t mention the carnival which is of course a must be in February! I’ll have to come back!

Another main event is the new year’s eve in Copacabana with million of people spending the night in the beach. And soon you may know that they will host the football world cup and Olympic games.

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On the next day we went to Inhotim, which is a big park with expositions at 60km from Belo Horizonte. I was lucky to meet the owner who is a billionaire who decided to share the contemporary artworks he bought to anybody. On our way we saw the beautiful mountains of Serra da Moeda. It was good to see something else than beaches!

Beautiful flowers of Inhotim park

Belo Horizonte is a quiet and clean city, the first big city where I really felt safe in Brazil, so it was nice to walk around. I had the opportunity to watch a rock concert there and I almost felt I was back in Europe! I almost forgot to tell you that the food is really wonderful there, so don’t miss the opportunity to have a coffee with a “pão de queijo” and try some specialities in a restaurant per kilo.

You know why it’s called “Belo Horizonte”

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Arraial d’Ajuda main beach

The best way to go to Arraial is to take a 10-min ferry from Porto Seguro. As always I could’t find timetables but I read in one forum that the ferry ran the whole night, so I supposed that there were night buses from the bus station to the ferry. The bus journey from Ilheus, where I spent one week, to Porto Seguro lasted around 6h so I arrived at 10pm there.

Indeed I had no problem to catch a bus to the harbour and there I was happily surprised to discover an animated street full of nice bars and souvenir shops. I had a walk in the street and then took the ferry which costed me R$3. Then you have to take a van or bus (both R$2) to the city center, where the hostels are. If your Pousada is on the way you can also ask the driver to drop you off.

I planned to sleep at Mox hostel but they hadn’t answered to my emails and calls. I thus walked there, just 5-10 min from where the van dropped me, in Mucuge street.  As it was a bank holiday they tried to charge me R$30, which is the same price as the HI hostel (if you have the card), which has a pool and is considered one of the best hostels in Brazil. Mox hostel is clean, quiet and very well located, but for the same price I would definitely have been to the HI hostel, especially because Internet was not working.

On the first day I had a walk on the beach with Christine, an American girl living in Salvador, who was sharing my room. We had planned to walk from the crowded Mucuge to the pristine Pitinga beach, but as we asked for some barman on our way, he told us that we were much far  away, just in between Arraial and Trancoso, which is a 15km-distance by the beach.

We decided to have a rest at his bar, had some natural juice, swimming, played volleyball for some time and then had lunch.

Once we had rested we followed our way towards Trancoso, which seemed to be much longer than the first part!

Trancoso is a small city perched on a cliff, with a chill out atmosphere, but the best was the walk until there. We were so tired that we directly looked for the bus to go back to Arraial. At night we had some dinner in one of the street posts of the main square.

Kids playing football in Trancoso’s main street

On the next day we explored Porto Seguro although nobody had recommended to do so. It’s good to know that the ferry is free in this way. Don’t ask people where the historical center is, nobody knows! When you get out of the ferry just follow the coast on your right and walk some 20 min until you will see a sign indicating it. Cross the street and take the second stair up to the upper city.

Once we finally found Porto Seguro old center, we could enjoy a beautiful view of the beaches around

Actually the old center is really nice and well preserved and it would have been a pity not to have seen it, especially knowing that it is supposed to be the place where Brazil was first discovered by the Portuguese (there are other versions!).

Porto Seguro’s historical center, where Brazil was discovered by Portuguese in 1500.

This protected stone marks the discovery of Brazil in Porto Seguro.

After that we took a bus to Coroa Vermelha beach which had been recommended by the hostel staff. I supposed that they recommended it for its many souvenir shops and Indian market. The beach itself is one more beautiful beach, the kind of beaches that if you see one you see all! But we walked to escape from the crowd around the bars and it was nice for relaxing.

Just by walking 15 minutes, we were able to be alone in the famous Coroa Vermelha beach.

On the next day I had planned to go to Caraiva which had been strongly recommended by various people but as the forecasts were bad and some friend was waiting for me in Belo Horizonte, I decided to catch the bus on the same afternoon.

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For the story, you need to know that Porto Seguro is the only city where they forced me to go through the turnstile in the bus to (see other posts for the story). On my way in there was no way to negotiate so I had to carry my backpack above the turnstile. On the way out I refused to do it as my backpack was heavy and in other cities they just let me stay with elderly people at the front of the bus. Incredibly they made me go through it, leaving my luggage where I was sitting the whole journey, going out at the back of the bus and in again at the front to catch my stuff. I was really amazed and a bit upset!

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Kids at work!

As you may already have read in my posts, most NGOs ask you to pay much money to work as a volunteer in Brazil ( we speak about more than US$800 a week). Human Network do Brasil is not like them. They have different social works and they also found a school for poor kids. I spent one week there and I had a wonderful experience. As I had no social experience I staid in one class helping the two teachers. I also took pictures of all the kids hoping that it could help the NGO communicating its work. Once I will be in Europe I plan to organize some exhibition to get more founds for the NGO.

I really liked this photo as those two kids made a contrast with the other kids playing in the background. They almost looked like bad boys, bust trust me, they were closer to angels!

Unfortunately I can not share the best photos with you as I don’t have the agreement to publish them yet. The expression on the eyes of those kids is something that touched my heard, so I so would love to share it with you one day.

The kids and two teachers who touched my heart!

After a few days, I was able to catch feeling and emotions in those kids’ eyes. I wish you could see it!

São Jão Bosco is more than a school. It is the place where kids have food, shower and special care. More of them lack one of those, if not the three. One day the school bus had been blocked because of the rain of the last night, so there were no kids at school. It was supposed to be my last day there so I decided to stay one day more to say goodbye.

Happy to go home!

My huge regret is not to have been able to stay at night there to spend more time with the 5 adolescents living there. I had work to do and I also wanted to spend some time with the family of my friend. As you’re traveling you always have to make hard decisions… If you have social experience you can contact Human Network, they are really nice and cheerful.

Some part of my host family in Mamoã beach. They were like my own family during those few days.

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To leave Barra Grande (see last post), I took the boat to Camamu. As there was no regular boat at the time I went to the pier they offered me a drive in a fast boat for R$10 instead of R$25, so I couldn’t refuse the offer. In Camamu I took the bus to Itacare where I met a girl who gave me the address of an hostel cheaper than the HI one of the Lonely Planet. The Pharol hostel was actually quite nice for R$23 but as I met other travellers who were in the Buddy’s hostel where for R$2 extra I could enjoy a complete breakfast, I decided to change on the next day.

It’s a good place to walk on the beach, go surfing, do whale watching, or have a drink at night. I was happy to be there, but I only stayed 2 days and a half there as I had commitment in Ilheus. The bus station is in the city center so it’s easy to catch it.

Tiririca beach is not for beginners. If you are learning surf, go to Ribeira, the next beach.

Shooting those local surfers was really a pleasure, but I wouldn’t have been in the water with them!

If you don’t like waves, Coroinha is perfect for you, as it lays in the mouth of the Contas’ river.

You will need to take a bus or car, but Engenhoca and the 3 other beaches in the nearby are really gorgeous, so don’t miss the opportunity to go and spend the day there. You can also walk the 12 km up there.

What did I tell you? The beaches are really amazing there! And more if you are alone as I was!

I had two regrets there: not having done whale-watching (I met some girls who saw a baby whale) and not having seen the Prainha’s beach. To go there, you have to walk in the forest during half an hour once in Ribeira, the last beach of the city. But there is a rumor about girls being raped there, so it’s strongly recommanded not to go alone. There are guides who go there, but they charge you R$30, which is just a racket. I went to Ribeira and staid there for one hour hoping that people who be walking there, but I haven’t seen anybody apart from the guides who where examining me. I really think that’s a rumor coming from the guides, but I would have taken the risk to check it, so I just left without having seen the supposely most beautiful  beach of Itacaré. That’s the only times I regret to be travelling alone.

But just for the story, at least I saw some whales from the coast, so if you open widely your eyes you could imagine one of them!

Have you seen it? I know, it was far away, but I was so amazed to see it! It was the first time in my life I saw a whale.

If you want more information about Itacaré, the official website is just great.

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I’m writing this post sitting on the front part of the deck of the ferry boat to Barra Grande in the Maraú Peninsula with a full moon in background. The places from which I’m writing this blog of course inspire me to share my stories with you.

Barra Grande is just the proof you not always follow what’s written in your guide book. If you are a fellow follower of my blog you will think that I already said it! But sorry guys, I am gonna repeat myself! If you are a real backpacker you will soon forget about your guide book and trust the other travellers you meet as well as your instinct. Barra Grande was not in my Lonely Planet but various travellers had recommended me to go there.

I had planned to go to Chiapada Diamantina, but it was a long detour as I thought that maybe it wasn’t so different from what I can see in Europe. I thus had planned to head directly to Morro de Sao Paulo, but as the weather forecasts were not good I finally decided to go directly to Barra Grande.

I left my couchsurfing family in Salvador after breakfast and I had no idea about timetables so I didn’t know where I would sleep during the night. As it wasn’t on my guide book either, I would just have to improvise! I was really lucky because even if there was traffic jam in Salvador (like usually), and then I had to wait for one hour for the ferry boat to Bom Despacho (the cheapest way to leave Salvador southward – R$5,2 on weekends),

then I had directly a bus to Camamu (R$26 – you can buy your ticket at the harbour), and there I took the last ferry boat to Barra Grande at 5.30pm (you can take lanchas for R$25 instead of R$6). The combination had been perfect so I think that I’m a lucky girl!

As I arrived there I asked people in the streets about a cheap Pousada and they recommended me the Pousada Sabia, which is very close to the center. I paid R$30 for my own room but with no breakfast (nevertheless the owner, who was really nice, offered me coffee). Barra Grande is really expensive, so it was really a good deal.

In one of the Pousada I met a German who told me about a party on the beach at 11pm. Although I was really tired I went there but he didn’t show up. Forró is a sensual dance and I didn’t want to stay there alone with all Brazilian guys asking me for dancing! As it is low season it was the only place of the city with some bustle.

On the next day I woke up early to see the natural pools in Taipus de Fora at low tide. I took a moto taxi to get there for R$10. Once more I was quite disappointed and as it was really windy I couldn’t see any fish, but the beaches were gorgeous there.

I then had a long and nice walk back to Barra Grande where I could see pristine beaches and great local surfers. I was almost alone on the beach as it was low season.

As I was alone, I had some fun taking photos of myself on the palm trees. But I had only 10 seconds to run and climb, so in some pictures I looked more like a monkey!

On the next morning I walked east to the river and I as I got attacked by a dog, I had to go back. Luckily he only had my pants (for once I had long ones). The night before I met a man from Camamu who offered me to take me by car to Camamu. In the morning he was at my hostel speaking with the owner, so I decided to trust him and go with him. But as he hadn’t showed up at 11am I decided to take the boat to Camamu and there I catched a bus to Itacare.

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I arrived in Salvador de Bahia on September 26th at 8.45am while I had left Porto de Galhinas at 3pm the day before, so I was somehow tired. I was going to sleep in some local family as I had decided to try the couchsurfing. Many travellers had advised me to try it and so I did. I had a really wonderful experience as I was really part of the family: Jojo took me to the bus station, then I met Maria, her stepmother, which is actually the one registered in couchsurfing.org.

Jojo took me to different places even when it was raining. We also went to the beach with her two sons who are really cute.

Salvador wouldn’t have been such an experience if I hadn’t been hosted by Maria. Apart from the Pelourinho, the historical center, which is quite small, and the Bomfin’s church, there is not much to see. Also it’s a dangerous city where tourists get regularly assaulted or even murdered, so I wasn’t willing to spend too much time alone in the streets. As Salvador is devided into the lower city and the upper city, to join the Pelourinho, you can need to catch the Lacerdo elevator.

Then you can freely walk in the streets of Pelourinho. I hadn’t my camera with me, as I had heard so many stories about Salvador, that I didn’t want to take any risk, and I was happy to do like that, as I could freely walk in the street without any fear.

On the first night I went to Barra beach, which has been voted the best beach of the world from some journal, but personally I don’t enjoy city beaches. I there met some couchsurfers as they had their weekly meeting. There were travellers and local hosters, and the atmosphere was great. I am happy to be now part of this community.

I stayed three days there where I ate marvelous home-made ice-creams from Maria. Visit her blog if you want to lick your lips.

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I stayed at the hostel Casa Branca, R$30 per night with HI card. I found it a bit expensive especially as the wifi only works near the reception, but the hostel is really clean and the breakfast yummy. During the day you have plenty of boat tours to choose from. On the next square I recommend you to have a look at the Pousada das Galhinas, which has been decorated with big funny figures representing the history of the city. Don’t ask if they have some room available, if you are a backpacker it will definitely not be your budget!

After having spoken to other backpackers at my hostel, I decided to pay R$35 for a tour to the pristine Praia Cardeiro. The landscapes are gorgeous, but if you can find a bus to go there just do it as the boat tour is not really worth it. The beach is really amazing but you can see as much walking as by boat and you won’t have to wait that others have lunch on the beach.

I escaped from the crowd and walked left to the Pousada Praia dos Carneiros where I could enjoy an ice beer in a hammock while writing this post, with Brazilian music in background. For once I think that I’m enjoying taking my time! If you’re very quiet you may enjoy this boat tour but then none of my recommendations in this blog will interest you!

On the next day, I woke up early to enjoy the natural pools of the main beach, as the low-tide was at 7am. Some people pay for a boat to leave them on the pools so that they don’t get their clothes wet. Other people like me went to the beach with only a swimming-suit and swam there (they are only 100m from the beach). Take flip-flops in a plastic bag, as the corral may hurt your feet.

I could see some fishes, but I expected something more spectacular. After breakfast, I walked up to the Pontal de Maracaípe, and I was somehow disappointed. The beach is really beautiful, but you don’t have to head up to the Pontal, except if you want to take a canoe to visit the river and see some sea horses, but I don’t think that it was something really special.

I think that the view is more impressive from a plane than if you walk on the beach. Also I had seen so many beautiful beaches since I had been travelling, that maybe it wasn’t so impactful for me, but people who only went to Porto de Galhinas were really amazed with the beauty of the landscapes.

Also take into consideration that you can not follow south easily,  so the best way is to go back to Recife, which means 2h30 of bus from Porto de Galhinas to Recife, then a local bus for 5 minutes to the metro station, then 40 minutes of bus to the main bus station, which means you are loosing much time if you are not thinking about staying a long time there.

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Olinda is a small town which has been declared in 1982 a Historical and Cultural Patrimony of Humanity by the UNESCO.

You can see its main colonial buildings, go up to the free lift at the top of the hill to enjoy a 360º view and visit the handicraft market in less than 3 hours. If you are lucky, you can meet sambas’ groups playing in the street.

Other travellers hadn’t recommended me to visit Recife, so as I came back to Recife I just went catched a bus to Porto de Galhinas. 

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You’ll see that when you’re traveling for a long-term period, you just don’t look anymore at your guide book, but simply ask other backpackers about their experience. Sometimes you can be disappointed as everyone has different tastes, but it is a risk to take!

At low-tide you can walk from the main beach up to Bahia dos Golfinhos, on your left-hand. Don’t book a boat tour if you don’t enjoy touristic tours. It’s only a 10-15 min walk from the center and you can just swim among the dolphins how long you want instead of annoying them during 15 minutes. It’s really an amazing experience even if they don’t go to close from you. You never know where or when they will appear and when you hear them blowing just 2 meters from you, you just feel so happy!

You can follow your way up to Praia de Madeiro where I rented a surf board for R$15 the 2 hours. It’s a great place for beginners, you will love it!

You can also walk to the right up to Praia do Amor (love beach in English). You’ll find plenty of lovers taking photos at sunset. You can also rent surf board but here it isn’t for beginners!

At night the streets are quite animated. You have many romantic places to choose between to have dinner (quite tough when your boyfriend is at 3.000 km far from you!).

As the municipal elections are soon Brazilian were demonstrating in the streets. Since I have been in Brazil I think that the only nights where I haven’t seen parties organized by politics where in the middle of the jungle! In Brazil it seems that the candidate who organizes the biggest party will be the one that will be elected! At least they are close to the citizens and they speak directly to them, what I have never seen in France for instance. I staid at Pousada Vera my House which had a good value for money as I paid R$25 per night for my own room including complete breakfast and wifi. The place is centrist, very close from where the bus leaves you and really clean.

After Praia da Pipa I followed my way south to Olinda and Porto de Galhinas.

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